March 2018

I had breakfast after about 8k and then continued on to finish in Portomarin, about 18k in total today.

Just after breakfast, I passed the 100k marker, wisely chiseled into the stone I stead of an easily stolen plaque. Apparently, the is precisely 100k to Santiago, assuming one accepts the accuracy...
I arrived at the albergue, I think the first person to check in, as I have my choice of all the beds. We have no common language between us, but am pretty sure he was trying to tell me that he'd bring me my 10€ change. Yes, there he is now.

As I was walking uphill today and eating some trail mix, I thought it would have been a perfect opportunity for some of Father Kelly's Steep Hill Fudge. Some of my family might remember that, although it's going back about 40 years. I think I may still have the recipe somewhere. I'll have to make some at Christmas.

Here are a few views along the way, the stairs into Portomarin, and the church with a great looking rose window. Unfortunately closed today for a private ceremony. I would have liked to see the stained glass of that window.

I've been walking around and enjoying the sunshine and busyness of this small town. I expect the busyness is all pilgrims, but it feels bustling without being overcrowded.

I considered the swimming pool, but decided it wasn't worth the €2 just to put my feet in the water. If I'd known there were so many pools, I would have brought a bathing suit.

Instead, I'm sitting in the shade having an agua con gas. I had a pizza for lunch and bought some fruit and yogurt for dinner.

Otherwise, nothing to do but read my book and send emails. Very relaxing. Life is just so damn easy. The only imperfection is the little bit cigarette smoke that keeps wafting my way. I could move, of course, but there would be effort involved and I just used all my effort to refill my glass...

Everyone staying in this albergue is either Spanish or Japanese. No one seems to speak English or French. Same in town. I didn't see anyone I knew or meet anyone I could talk to, except briefly with Jacima who was walking through to Gonzar.

Oh well, I guess that is bound to happen when I'm in Spain. There is much hilarity happening in the kitchen area, which is right next to the bedroom. I guess I'm feeling a little left out but it's good they are all having a good time.

Back to my book, then.

700 down, 100 k to go

View to Portomarin

Bridge to Portomarin

Stairs up, way up into town

Portomarin Church, unfortunately closed

The morning walk was foggy. Apparently, there are beautiful views along that stretch, but all I saw were cows and mist. The trees were dripping like rain with the morning moisture. Pintin is a welcome stop and I'm sitting inside for warmth. I've ordered an omelette with bacon and an OJ, which just arrived and is huge. The food is excellent, too.

At about noon, I stopped in Sarria. First, to replace my waist bag at the only shop open on a Sunday and, then for a snack of toast with ham and tomato and some hot water to stave off the chill of the day. A bit hard with my feet bare, but the cold felt good on the feet.

Now, I'm going off to Barbadelo...

The walk to Barbadelo was through a nice wood that I didn't fully appreciate until the sun finally came out. Now I am sitting in the Terrace restaurant after having sat for an hour with my feet in the swimming pool and my KC ball cap turned around to keep the sun off the back of my neck.

I'm having a 1906 being la mas negra of their beer choices. It's more of a tostada, but not bad - it has some colour & flavor and is often available so I can ask for it by name, or rather by number.

I'm planning on trying the Galicia meal tonight which includes mussels (famous here) and beef or pork. The pork is listed as "pork secrets" - not sure if that's a good or a bad sign. This is a very nice albergue, but the swimming pool was the deal maker. Glad it came up early before I'd paid for somewhere else.

I have started on the last leg, the section that everyone says is too busy and full of tour groups. Given the light traffic so far, I don't know if it will be as bad as predicted.

I saw Ingrid (Denmark) in the bar in Sarria. We had talked in Vega de Valcarce about their plans to attend a mass with the botafumeiro and they were planning on arriving on Sunday using a combo of walking and buses. I advised that the borafumeiro (huge incense burner) was only at the mass on Friday nights and that it was necessary to walk all of the last 100k in order to receive a Compostela (completion certificate).

My suggestion, which she followed (with thanks), was to cab from O Cebreiro to Sarria and then take the 5 days to walk to Santiago, making sure to get at least two stamps per day in the credenciel. That way they will see the botafumeiro on Friday night and earn their Compostela.

I am looking forward to seeing many of the people I've been walking with at the Friday night mass; we'll have to get there early!

I'm really happy that I took the extra effort yesterday and am back on my planned schedule. More later. I'll tell you about dinner.

View of Sarria

Marker for Sarria

Cows and mist

Feet in the pool

Up early and left at 6:30 in the dark, walking along side a road with very little traffic. The route was a bit disconcerting because there were so few way markers and they were hard to see until you were going the right way.

After a few k on the road, there was a choice - road option for cyclists (longer, but on the road, so potentially less steep) or left on the dirt path for walkers, which I soon learned was also for the horses. I had to watch my step and not just for rocks.

It was a steep switchback rocky path and promises more of the same for the next 5k to the top and O Cebreiro. Based on my planned stopping point, most of the descent will be tomorrow. My 12k after O Cebreiro will be relatively flat.

I like the ceramic table top at this bar in La Faba. Also, last night I took a pic of these worn out boots that had been put to good use as planters.

Here in Galicia, apparently, precision is very important. The way markers include the distance to Santiago to three (3!) decimal places. This is unbelievable after the contradictory distances reported throughout. Early on, I saw 597km to Santiago, followed 28 km later by 595km to Santiago. A couple of days ago I passed three signs about 5 k apart saying 204, then 211, then 200 km to go.

I am having trouble believing that someone has not only calculated the walking distance to three decimals, but thought that we pilgrims would need that level of detail.

Taking a shoes-off break in Hospital da Condesa for a bocadillo con jamon y tomate. I'm deciding how far to go today. It's another 6.3k to Fonfria, where I had thought to stop at the 22 k mark. My original plan had me reaching Triacastela, which would be another 9 k, making this a long day.

I like the idea if catching up, but I can still get back on track the day after tomorrow without any long days. I also hear the albergue in Fonfria is a nice experience with a communal dinner (no other options). On the other side of the argument, this a really nice day, not too hot and there are beautiful views. It also makes sense to get the descent over with and not on the dark tomorrow morning. I'll just see how I feel after my break and sandwich...

A few km after leaving Fonfril, there was Marta sitting on a stone wall just waiting for me to walk by. Great to re-connect with her and we walked here and both plan to continue into Triacastela.

Arriving in Triacastela I have not yet seen three castles, but since that is the name of the town (pop 900, making it relatively large), I hope to see some signs of a castle or three this evening.

I am staying in the Complexo Xacobeo albergue ("x" is pronounced like "sh"), which is very large, clean and run by a very nice hospitalero who does not speak any English. We've communicated in broken Spanish and hand signals and so I have successfully showered and put my clothes in the wash. I know, I could wash them by hand, but a washing machine, when available is so nice. I'll hang them to dry, I swear.

I ended up deciding to continue to Triacastela instead of staying in Fronfil because, frankly, I didn't like the look of the place. I'm sure the albergue is nice enough and the meal would have been lovely, but I arrived at 1:45 and would have had to spend 8 hours before bed in a place that was not a town. It was more like a farmyard, with various animals wandering around and there was manure everywhere (I'm sure it was clean inside, but I don't want to spend 8 hours inside). I decided a 2.5 hour walk was worth it to get to somewhere I was willing to spend time. This place is so nice, it was definitely worth it.

The extra distance meant I walked 33 km today and it was a tough go. One section was so steep it was just like going up a steep set of stairs, but without steps. At the top I could see something orange, which eventually turned into an umbrella at the bar at the top. It seemed to be in the middle of nowhere.

On the whole, it was uphill for about 15 k or so, then downhill the rest. The downhill was not as steep as I'd been fearing and the steepest sections were on pavement rather than loose gravel. On the way up, I resented every little down section, because it represented further I'd have to climb. Same on the way down. Marta laughed at me when I complained about a short upward climb, saying I must be having a long day.

I'm not sure the picture clearly shows the steepness. This was a path I'd just climbed that felt very steep, at least until I was shown what steep really means leading up to the orange umbrella.

Looking forward to dinner; I'm hungrier than I expected to be, since we stopped for a snack 4k before Triacastela. We're meeting for dinner at 7. Gotta get the laundry done..

I forgot to mention, Catherine (KC) said they stayed in Fonfril and "had a very interesting evening". I've asked what that meant and explained that I decided not to stay there. I'll be interested to hear whether " interesting" was good or not so much.

After dinner at the restaurant attached to the albergue, Marta and walked around town a bit - there isn't much town, so a bit was all there was to do - ending up at the church and graveyard.

I missed seeing the church as it was closed, but Marta and I "broke into" the graveyard, through which you have to walk to get to the church (odd in itself). Well, we just pushed the gate extra hard since there was no latch or lock.

Anyway, I found it interesting. In contrast to the graveyards I am used to, none of the graves appeared to be below ground. All of the graves except one had a nice flower arrangement, almost all artificial flowers, but they looked nice. One grave, however, was surrounded by a rusted old fence and a gate, which could be opened - don't ask how I know - but the area inside the fence was overgrown and smelled like rotten vegetation. It was odd and we wondered at the significance of it.

Finally, we parted, and since Marta is going home tomorrow and we may not see each other again, we took a last selfie together.

All the uphill today has resulted in a sore butt - those glutes get a workout going uphill. I woke up this morning with a bit of a sore back, although it seems better than it was. It may be more than just the path going downhill!

Just about time for bed.

Shoe planter

Highly accurate sign

Steep, I swear

A way-marker on the back of a car

Last selfie with Marta

Graveyard

One different plot

Me and a statue

Gorgeous view

Map, just before O Cebreiro

I love the ceramic tiles

8:06 am in Villafraca del Bierzo It was very stormy last night. It appeared to be lessening to a drizzle and the thunder/lightning was moving farther away based on the widening seconds between the two. So, I set off, walking in the dark and drizzle at 6:30. The rain turned heavier and the storm (or a 2nd storm) moved closer, but the thunder was never less than 7 seconds after the lightning. Rain gear seem to hold up well, but I was sweating in the jacket so my shirt is soaked anyway. By 7:15, the rain event was over. I'm stopped for a breakfast of tostada y jamon (toast & ham) and agua caliente (hot water).

There are three route options leaving Villafranca. One is labeled "for experienced hikers only...with a good sense of direction... In good weather only" (ah, no); the second option is "scenic...allow an extra hour or two for the steep ascent and descent...discouraged by locals...very beautiful in the early morning sun" (of which there is none). The main route is shorter, but follows the road the whole way and is less scenic. If the weather were nicer, I might consider the scenic route, but with more rain threatening, I will stick to the road.

While I have the jacket off, I'll keep the pack rain cover on and hope I and the pack cover all dry out.

Stopped for a shoes-off break in Trabadelo for a tarts de Santiago and agua caliente. Still cool and overcast, bit not raining yet. Walking by the road, nothing much to see. The road widened enough to put seats outside the bar and albergue on both sides of the street with a sign that says Trabadela. I don't think there's anything else here. I'm stopping for a few, then 7.5 km to Vega del Valcarce, which is the name of the river.

The pictures of Villcovernca - show a seldom seen grey sky. I took a few pics through the towns. The big highway is a really high overpass. Its always hard to know exactly how far it is to Santiago because the distance signs are so contradictory. This one shows 200k, but 20k earlier one showed 204k. My app now shows 167k to go.

In Vega del Valcarce now at 1:15 pm, just arrived and waiting to check in...

There are 7 days of walking to go. I'm alternating between anticipation of seeing you and arriving in Santiago and the sadness of felling like my great adventure is almost over.

I have one big challenge left - O Cebreiro, which some say is the toughest hill in terms of up and down. I will tackle that tomorrow. I was tempted by a sign advertising horses to take you up. If I'd done it before I would really enjoy that, but for now I want to finish under my own power. Besides, it's the down that's hard, not so much the up.

I'll take a look at this little town there's a supermarcado so I might have a repeat of yesterday's fruta nirvana (my own term for it, not the Spanish for fruit, yogurt and granola).

The municipal albergue is nice - solid, comfortable bunk beds, not very busy yet (I'm the only one on this room so far), good shower, new washing machine, 5€. Can't beat that deal.

My waist pouch buckle broke this morning, so I have it safety-pinned together. Those big diaper-sized pins were a great buy. I have them all in use now. Of the 5 pins I bought, Esther and I each used one for holding a water bottle in place. Two of them are attaching a small Canadian flag to my pack and the last one is now holding my buckle together. I'll find a fix or replacement in Sarria, if not before. Sarria is a common starting place for the pilgrimage because it is the minimum distance from which to earn a Compostela. Off to finish the laundry and then take a look around...

I had my huge helping of fruit, yogurt and assorted nuts (no granola) at 3, then wasn't hungry enough at 7 for more than some peanuts at the bar along with my agua con gas.

Some of the others went to the river to soak their feet, but it looked too buggy for me as I still have 20 or so bites, each red, itchy, and the size of a quarter. I'm using the cream and taking the calcium, but they seem to be staying. Or else I'm getting a new crop every night. Still, it doesn't stop me walking, although I have to tape up a couple on my feet because the swollen bites chafe in my boot.

I've just realized I didn't pay for my second drink. I'm going to walk over and remedy that before bed...

I paid my bill. It's not the first time. I try to pay when I order, but they don't always let me and then I forget later. I think only once did I forget after leaving town.

Getting ready for bed. It's cooler tonight; I might actually need the sleeping bag. Most places have blankets so I could have used that, but I like to sleep on top of it except in the few places that have had sheets and a proper bed made up. Generally, I prefer it to being directly on top of what everyone else has slept on. I've needed it at least 5 or so times for warmth. And sometimes I just put my feet in the end. I use the silk liner every day, though. It covers the pillow as well.

Time for sleep. I've taken pills and have the ear plugs in and the alarm is set for 6.

Grey sky

Nice tile work

Highway overpass

Cute figures

Statue

Nice park

In Cacabelos. It's 3 pm and I've just checked in and showered and taken care of the laundry.

As planned, I started out later than usual (7:30am) and arrived 6 km later in Ponferrada at about 8:45. I had breakfast at a nice bakery across the street from the Castillo de los Templarios and ran into Isabella. I was killing time until 10 when the castle would open, while Isabella was similarly waiting for an albergue to open, as she planned a short walking day to somewhat follow the Dr's order she was given to rest.

At 10, I hustled over to the castle and began touring and taking dozens of photos. I love castles. This one was recently declared a national monument and has had extensive renovations. The Castillo dates from the 12th and 15th centuries, the latter additions after the Templars were outlawed and disbanded in 1312 (on that famous Friday the 13th).

The upper and lower wall walks were closed, but I was able to climb a very tight spiral staircase for nice views of Ponferrada. I finished in the castle about 10:30 or so and began the walk out of Ponferrada.

The way markers were difficult to find and I was not comfortable that I was on the right path, so I pulled up my Camino app and found I was several blocks away from its path. I followed the street around to the major road that was marked in the app and followed it for more than 3 km with only one or two way markers. I think this path along the sidewalk of the busy street is no longer used, but eventually, I saw pilgrims ahead at the turn and found the yellow arrows again.

It turned out, those pilgrims were Blair and Catherine from Kansas City and I walk with them from Columbianos, through Fuentes Nuevas, where we stopped for 15-20 minutes and into Camponaraya, about 4-5 kms.

I told Blair & Catherine we would be in Kansas City next year for the total eclipse. Catherine gave me a KC Royals cap, saying she had brought it with the intention of giving it to someone who might wear it to a game. I wore it for most of today. I have their contact info for when we go to KC next year.

In Fuentes Nuevas we heard bagpipes playing and found this man in a large warehouses type of room blaring out the pipes for all the passers-by. In Columbianos, Blair and Catherine stopped at a farmacia to see if there was anything to relieve some toe pain and I continued on the final 6 k to Cacabelos.

I found a great fixer-upper for Jason. You could really work some magic on this place.

The walk to Cacabelos was very hot, at least 30 and no shade for 5 of the 6k. I am staying at a nice municipal albergue made up of 2-bed units surrounding a church. I haven't met my roommate yet, but small rooms and no bunk beds are always a plus.

I walked into town from the albergue in search of food. I hadn't eaten more than a few cookies since breakfast and that was more than 5 hours earlier.

In town I found Blair and Catherine having an ice cream before continuing on to Villafranca, about 7 km away. Blair said he'd taken my advice re cold water (asked for and provided during the previous walk together) and they'd stopped at a river to put feet into the water for 45 minutes. He admitted to finding his feet felt much better as a result.

Once they were on their way, I began my search for food, finally finding an open grocery store. For 2.5€ I bought a grapefruit (!), green apple, nectarine, two bananas and a 4-pack of plain yogurt. Back at the albergue, I thoroughly enjoyed feasting on my previously purchased granola & nuts with the fruit and yogurt. It was just like a great piece of home. Fantastic! I had to give directions to the store (not my strong suit) to two others who decided fruit was perfect for their dinner also. I've started a trend and I'm stuffed.

It's still really warm at 7 pm and I think the bedroom will be stifling tonight until it cools down. I plan to be off early tomorrow for the 24k to Vega de Valcarce, which will be quite flat and relatively easy. The temperature looks to be a be cooler tomorrow.

I've only just over a week left and, while I'm looking forward to seeing Steve a week from today, I feel like I could happily walk for another month. It is truly a wonderful and freeing experience.

By the way, I met my roomie, Jacima. She's Spanish and has done the Camino before, but is still having feet problems and seems to have brought the wrong shoes.

I'm pretty happy with my research and preparations, given how well everything is going. Almost everyone I meet has blisters or big toe problems - black toes, losing nails, or swelling/infection. It is amazing to me. A lot of the time it seems to be too-small footwear.

It's still hot out and even hotter in the room. I'm sitting on the step outside the room. Here's my view of the church without even getting up...

I just walked a half block from the albergue in my PJs and sandals and waded into the creek for ten minutes until my feet started to feel frozen. Very nice.

Dorothy (Polish) and Agnes, who I met when I first arrived at the albergue saw my red bites and offered me calcium tablets for allergies. I'll see if they help over the next few days and then I can always get some more.

Time to think about bed, but a bit too warm to sleep yet...

Castillo de los Templarios

Fixer uppper

Me, Blair, Catherine

Breakfast

Model castle

Bagpipe player

Cacabelos

Cacabelos

View from my room