Day 28, Cacabelos

In Cacabelos. It's 3 pm and I've just checked in and showered and taken care of the laundry.

As planned, I started out later than usual (7:30am) and arrived 6 km later in Ponferrada at about 8:45. I had breakfast at a nice bakery across the street from the Castillo de los Templarios and ran into Isabella. I was killing time until 10 when the castle would open, while Isabella was similarly waiting for an albergue to open, as she planned a short walking day to somewhat follow the Dr's order she was given to rest.

At 10, I hustled over to the castle and began touring and taking dozens of photos. I love castles. This one was recently declared a national monument and has had extensive renovations. The Castillo dates from the 12th and 15th centuries, the latter additions after the Templars were outlawed and disbanded in 1312 (on that famous Friday the 13th).

The upper and lower wall walks were closed, but I was able to climb a very tight spiral staircase for nice views of Ponferrada. I finished in the castle about 10:30 or so and began the walk out of Ponferrada.

The way markers were difficult to find and I was not comfortable that I was on the right path, so I pulled up my Camino app and found I was several blocks away from its path. I followed the street around to the major road that was marked in the app and followed it for more than 3 km with only one or two way markers. I think this path along the sidewalk of the busy street is no longer used, but eventually, I saw pilgrims ahead at the turn and found the yellow arrows again.

It turned out, those pilgrims were Blair and Catherine from Kansas City and I walk with them from Columbianos, through Fuentes Nuevas, where we stopped for 15-20 minutes and into Camponaraya, about 4-5 kms.

I told Blair & Catherine we would be in Kansas City next year for the total eclipse. Catherine gave me a KC Royals cap, saying she had brought it with the intention of giving it to someone who might wear it to a game. I wore it for most of today. I have their contact info for when we go to KC next year.

In Fuentes Nuevas we heard bagpipes playing and found this man in a large warehouses type of room blaring out the pipes for all the passers-by. In Columbianos, Blair and Catherine stopped at a farmacia to see if there was anything to relieve some toe pain and I continued on the final 6 k to Cacabelos.

I found a great fixer-upper for Jason. You could really work some magic on this place.

The walk to Cacabelos was very hot, at least 30 and no shade for 5 of the 6k. I am staying at a nice municipal albergue made up of 2-bed units surrounding a church. I haven't met my roommate yet, but small rooms and no bunk beds are always a plus.

I walked into town from the albergue in search of food. I hadn't eaten more than a few cookies since breakfast and that was more than 5 hours earlier.

In town I found Blair and Catherine having an ice cream before continuing on to Villafranca, about 7 km away. Blair said he'd taken my advice re cold water (asked for and provided during the previous walk together) and they'd stopped at a river to put feet into the water for 45 minutes. He admitted to finding his feet felt much better as a result.

Once they were on their way, I began my search for food, finally finding an open grocery store. For 2.5€ I bought a grapefruit (!), green apple, nectarine, two bananas and a 4-pack of plain yogurt. Back at the albergue, I thoroughly enjoyed feasting on my previously purchased granola & nuts with the fruit and yogurt. It was just like a great piece of home. Fantastic! I had to give directions to the store (not my strong suit) to two others who decided fruit was perfect for their dinner also. I've started a trend and I'm stuffed.

It's still really warm at 7 pm and I think the bedroom will be stifling tonight until it cools down. I plan to be off early tomorrow for the 24k to Vega de Valcarce, which will be quite flat and relatively easy. The temperature looks to be a be cooler tomorrow.

I've only just over a week left and, while I'm looking forward to seeing Steve a week from today, I feel like I could happily walk for another month. It is truly a wonderful and freeing experience.

By the way, I met my roomie, Jacima. She's Spanish and has done the Camino before, but is still having feet problems and seems to have brought the wrong shoes.

I'm pretty happy with my research and preparations, given how well everything is going. Almost everyone I meet has blisters or big toe problems - black toes, losing nails, or swelling/infection. It is amazing to me. A lot of the time it seems to be too-small footwear.

It's still hot out and even hotter in the room. I'm sitting on the step outside the room. Here's my view of the church without even getting up...

I just walked a half block from the albergue in my PJs and sandals and waded into the creek for ten minutes until my feet started to feel frozen. Very nice.

Dorothy (Polish) and Agnes, who I met when I first arrived at the albergue saw my red bites and offered me calcium tablets for allergies. I'll see if they help over the next few days and then I can always get some more.

Time to think about bed, but a bit too warm to sleep yet...

Castillo de los Templarios

Fixer uppper

Me, Blair, Catherine

Breakfast

Model castle

Bagpipe player

Cacabelos

Cacabelos

View from my room