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Day 27, Molinaseca


View Deb's Camino de Santiago de Compostela on Deb Godley's travel map.

Omelet and zumo naranja for breakfast after great views of the morning sky. I walked up, way up, to Foncebadon in the dark this morning. I felt alone with the sky, but of course could see lights ahead of me and conversation drifting up behind me. I kept turning around to see the sunrise.

I walked a short way with Grahame from London UK, who was in Cats last year on the Oasis of the Seas, which I told him was our favorite ship and that we had seen Cats on Oasis, but I couldn't rember the exact timing. Grahame said he started in Cats in April 2015, but was in the Fly Away with Me show in March. I think we were on Oasis in Februrary that year.

He's planning on going back for another tour because he says it's a great lifestyle and, with room and board included and tax-free income at sea, it's good money as well. Very interesting. I hadn't considered it, but when at sea for a year with no home base, to what country would you pay taxes? The things you learn on the Camino.

I'm off to the Cruz de Ferro, just 2k ahead to place the stones. I arrived at the cross, climbed to the base and left the stones with my prayers, following the line of other pilgrims carefully leaving their own stones and prayers.

The descent to El Acebo, was a tough descent, but beautiful views. I have walked 17 km and have about 8 to go.

11:50 am: I am sitting in the backyard terrace of a small bar. I can see the mountains - I still have quite a bit of descent left to Molinaseca. There has been a constant buzz of flies all morning. I feel like I will never again hear silence, as if the flies are now inside my head. Also, with the hard work of the descent, the humidity, and the heat, I stink of sweat. At the moment I am stinking alone.

This is a less popular bar, but there were no seats out of the sun, so I walked past the full bars to find this one where the terrace is completely hidden in the back. The internet is great, though. I'm just having an agua con gas with my shoes and socks off and my feet propped up on a chair.

Luckily, there's been no rain, but it looked like rain on distant hills. I really felt like I was walking in the mountains today and some of the path was lovely with purple flowers. I tried to capture the path in the pics, as well as the beauty of the sun through the clouds.

Today was a long day. The 25 km felt much longer. I am no longer on the flat Maseta! I left in the dark at 6:25 and arrived In Molinaseca at 2:30 pm. Even with breaks, this was a longer haul. Paul tells me I can put my feet in the river, so I plan to do that once my clothes are done and look around town, too.

The descent today was very tough on my knees, but now that its done they feel OK. I ascended from 1150m to 1515m, but then descended to 600m at a much steeper pace, at times on loose gravel and/or sharp rocks. The next two days should be relatively flat followed by the most difficult hill - O Cebreiro.

In town, I found some stairs, they reminded me of San Francisco, but I didn't have to climb these. Also, I filled my first credenciel and have started a second one.

The weather turned stormy with very strong winds after Acebo (but no rain!). Happily, the flies that had stuck with me all morning were powerless against the wind and then couldn't find me again, so the ear-buzzing was first replaced with a howling wind and then by silence. Lovely.

On an email tip from Paul, I am staying at the albergue Compostela, which is very nice. I just had a shower with a rain showerhead - I love those! I paid 2€ extra for a bed rather than a bunk.

On another note, it is so easy to lose things. So far, I have unintentionally left behind (forgotten on the clothes line or dropped somewhere):
- the bottoms to my zip-off shorts
- a 2nd bra (Marta saw it but didn't know it was mine)
- an earplug holder + several earplugs

I'm wearing and washing the same clothes every day, so the losses are not too troublesome, but I'll be stuck if anything happens to the remaining clothes. I might just see what they have in town, especially in the bra dept.

5:30pm : the thunder and rain has started.

6pm the storm is over. I am having a beer that I thought would be darker, but shockingly my Spanish is not sufficient to convey what I want.

Molinaseca looked much bigger from the mountain view. There are a few bars, but I've alreafy walked the round trip up one street and down the other. I took the switchback route to reach the church and took a few pics, as usual. The storm has been raging on. Heavy rain, thunder, presumably lightning. Tomorrow early afternoon looks similar no matter where I stop.

I may just play it by ear and stop before the storm, if that's possible. I'd rather not be out in a lightning storm. Nor in heavy rain if I can avoid it.

7:45p and it suddenly stopped and is sunny again.

I'm on the 2nd floor of this albergue and it is warm and humid up here. Not going to be great for sleeping and I'm not sure there's a window to let in cooler night air. We'll see how this goes.

Sunrise in Foncebadon

Sunrise in Foncebadon

Breakfast in Foncebadon

Breakfast in Foncebadon

Stones carried from Canada

Stones carried from Canada

Cruz de Ferro

Cruz de Ferro

Stones carefully placed

Stones carefully placed

Descent to el Acebo

Descent to el Acebo

Descent to el Acebo

Descent to el Acebo

Stairs

Stairs

Molinaseca

Molinaseca

Molinaseca

Molinaseca

Molinaseca

Molinaseca

Posted by Deb Godley 17:18 Archived in Spain

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