Day 15, Hornillos del Camino

In a word, buggy.

I ate a fantastic breakfast this morning, which was included in my booking. Cheese-scrambled and boiled eggs, bacon (lots of bacon), toast, bread, pastries, fruit, 3 kinds of fresh juice, cheeses & meats, tomato, yogurt, donuts and hot drinks. Really excellent, but it didn't open until 7:30 and there was a large tour group. So, I didn't get on my way until after 8.

I am a fast walker, especially on my own and I covered the 21 km, arriving here at 12:30 - very good time, including a break halfway for fruit and the required shoe removal and toe wiggle.

The last 8 km between Rabe de las Calzadas ang my arrival here on Hornillos del Camino was walked through swarms of insects. It was awful. I used my buff or my hat, depending on which I wasn't wearing, to wave constantly in front of my face. Oh. My. God. I don't think it was mosquitoes because I don't seem to be bitten, so I am assuming black flies.

Anyway I took few pictures because I was too busy swatting. These are a few from towns along the way. I'm off to find repellent perhaps, and food. I've turned in all my clothes to be washed and I'm wearing my sleep shirt and new shorts.

The church in Hornillos is nice inside, but very plain on the outside, in keeping with the stone buildings in town. I like the arches. They actually look more beautiful in the pictures with the light hitting them they look like marble, but it's just white stone.

As per most of these small Camino-economy villages, there is only one street with a couple of side alleys that lead to dead ends, walls or fields of hay. Because Hornillos is a recommended guidebook stop, there are several albergues, two bars, and a tienda (small shop).

All of the albergues here advertise a communal meal. I like the sound of the one at the El Alfar where I'm staying: paella, salad, and lemon mousse, with bread, and water or wine. Still two hours away, though, and I've already walked everywhere in town. Most of the others pilgrims like to take a nap in the afternoons, so there's weren't many in the bars earlier.

David, the priest from ND is also staying here so we've had a short chat. I'm looking forward to the communal meal tonight and the chance to better meet the other guests here.

It was supposed to be about 21 kms, but the fitbit is showing 24. I don't think it could be right given it took me only 4 hrs, even though I was walking fast today.

I like the flatter terrain, but I'll be happier if there are fewer insects flying up my nose and in my mouth and eyes tomorrow. I think I got a portion of my daily protein in the form of black flies this morning. Yuck.

I'm going to go look around. Its over 30 degrees today, which I like better than the cold in Burgos.

My El Alfar albergue appears to be reasonably cool, though. Great showers, too. And they have drinks to buy on the honour system in a refrigerated case as well as some snacks in bowls. Very nice and only beds for 20, but it doesn't seem full so far.

At dinner, two of the guests are not walking, but on a driving holiday (because the albergue is not full). They just returned from Lisbon and said they could smell the smoke and were told there were lots of fires, including near Porto (where we are going after the walk).

Dinner was nice. The food was good. It was nice to have fresh salad and the paella and lemon dessert were both good. I had white wine instead of the ever-present red. I have to especially ask for white because every meal comes with red wine. It sometimes doesn't work to just ask for white; I have to explain that I have a medical reason I cannot drink red.

One of the diners, an Italian just started east of Burgos and this is her first day. The others were David (ND), the driving couple and two women from France.

If I wake up early, I'm going to see if I can see the meteor shower. Not sure I want to disturb everyone by setting an alarm, though, so I'll just see if I happen to wake up at 4ish as usual.

It's about time for bed. A hot day expected tomorrow. I hope with fewer bugs.

Cool map

Church in Hornillos; looks like marble

One street town